Summer/Fall 2001

Gulf Islands National Seashore

The Gulf Islands National Seashore is a place of myriad riches. There are sparkling blue waters, magnificent snowy-white beaches and fertile coastal marshes. In this national seashore there are 19th century forts, shaded picnic areas, winding nature trails and comfortable campgrounds. Diverse and abounding with fish and wildlife, the park is not a single block of land, it is mosaic. It stretches eastward 150 miles from West Ship Island, Mississippi, to the eastern tip of Santa Rosa Island, Florida.

When I was growing up in Greenville, I distinctly remember several family vacations. I remember my parents' 88 Oldsmobile overheating in the Ozark Mountains near Lake Taneycomo. And I remember going to Ship Island in 1971 and seeing Fort Massachusetts, which started my vast interest in Civil War battlefields and history. And this year, as we celebrate the 30th anniversary of the seashore, it is appropriate that we take an in depth look at what this coastal treasure has to offer.

The Fort became part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore when Congress established it in 1971. The purposes of this park are to provide recreation for visitors and to protect the wildlife, barrier islands, salt marshes, historic structures and archeological sites along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico.

Besides the islands, the Gulf Islands National Seashore includes parcels of land on the Florida and Mississippi mainlands. Here you can find fortifications built by the Spaniards and Americans. You will also find the site of the first federal tree farm established in 1829, archeological traces of American Indians and forests and marshes teeming with wildlife.

The Life of a Barrier Island
Although more than 80 percent of the park is submerged land, barrier islands are unique. Composed of brilliant white sand carried seaward by rivers, the islands are long and narrow. They are called barrier islands because they serve as blockades to the ocean waves and violent storms that would otherwise strike the mainland coast with greater force. For example, in 1969, Hurricane Camille split Ship Island in two. Subsequent hurricanes have made significant alterations to the islands.

How barrier islands were formed is not yet known. Theories involve the impacts of waves, wind and fluctuating sea levels. Whatever their origin, barrier islands are always changing. Similar to rivers and streams, currents wear away islands on their eastern ends while building them up on the west. As a result, the island shifts to the west. Whether wind or current, changes to the islands are slowed only by the protective covering of grasses and plants that grow on the dunes and the interior of the island.

Plants such as sea oats, which are tolerant of high salt levels, play critical roles in holding the barrier islands together. Photo by Gulf Islands National Seashore.

Barrier islands provide unique habitat for many species of fish, wildlife and plants. Near the water, plants such as sea oats and cord grass, which are tolerant of high salt levels, play critical roles in holding the islands together. Behind the dunes, shrubs and some trees grow. In the interior of the islands, marshes trap freshwater. And behind these islands waters of the sounds, bays and bayous, which are less salty that the waters of the Gulf, give rise to a wealth of marine life, including shrimp and commercial fish that are valuable to Mississippi's economy. Without the protection of barrier islands, the fish, wildlife and plant communities of the mainland coasts would not be as rich.

A Brief History Of The Seashore
When Europeans first visited the northern Gulf of Mexico in the early 1500s, they found populous and thriving American Indian settlements. Middens (rubbish piles) and other remains that were found help archaeologists understand and chronicle the long period of Indian settlement. All the park's archeological sites, historical sites and artifacts are protected by federal law and can not be disturbed.

Along the Gulf of Mexico, discovery by Europeans was followed by a long struggle for the region's control. In Mississippi, sovereignty shifted from France to England and from England to Spain. Eventually, Mississippi joined the United States. In 1859, the United States Government began on a fort on Ship Island, Mississippi. The fort saw brief action during the Civil War. In later years, fortifications and weapons systems along the coast were updated and expanded. They remained active until the end of World War II, when modern weapons made traditional coastal defense obsolete.

Horn, Petit Bois, East Ship and West Ship Islands
The Gulf Islands National Seashore protects four unique and remote barrier islands off the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. Located 10 miles offshore, the beaches, marshes and woodlands offer a rare solitude situated not far from a rapidly developing coast. Existence is harsh in this world of intense heat, high humidity, and, in fact, some desert-like conditions.

The islands in the Mississippi district are about 10 miles offshore and can be reached only by boat. During the spring, summer and fall, excursion boat trips from Gulfport to West Ship Island are offered. Private boats may dock near Fort Massachusetts on West Ship Island year-round, but only during daylight hours. Information about boats licensed to carry passengers to the wilderness islands (East Ship, Horn and Petit Bois) is available at the William M. Colmer Visitor Center.

The islands offer dramatic scenery but limited facilities. On East Ship, Horn and Petit Bois islands, primitive camping is permitted, but food and drinking water must be packed in and all trash removed. On the West Ship Island, limited food service and water are available at a concession stand. Guided tours of Fort Massachusetts on the West Ship Island are given in summer. Visitors to the fort will find exhibits, informational publications, and a small bookstore. A boardwalk, about 1/3-mile long, goes from the boat dock across to the south side of the island. There you can find a swimming beach with a bathhouse, a snack bar, restrooms, indoor and outdoor showers and a picnic pavilion.

Fort Massachusetts
During the War of 1812, 10,000 British soldiers landed on Ship Island preparing to battle United States' forces in New Orleans. Although victorious, the United States planned a series of coastal masonry forts to prevent foreign invasion of major seaports. Debate surfaced on whether a fort on Ship Island should be constructed. Mississippi politicians, including Secretary of War Jefferson Davis, pressured Congress. Some military officers argued that shipping lanes could be better protected with naval patrols. However, that argument was rejected and approval for the project was given by President Franklin Pierce

Construction began in 1859 and from the start the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers met obstacles. The first superintendent died from yellow fever. Storms and hurricanes destroyed initial construction and after two years, only the outer wall rose to 8 feet. The isolation of island living proved difficult too. The health of the workers became such an issue that Superintendent Frederick Prime sought permission to hire a physician at $80 per month.

The Civil War created even greater problems. In early 1861, Mississippi secessionists seized the unfinished fort and forced the engineers and workers off the island. The Confederates built up the force with timbers and sandbags. In July, Captain Melancton Smith of the USS Massachusetts sailed close to shore to investigate activities on the island. A brief exchange of cannon shots took place between opposing forces. Although they claimed victory, the Confederates withdrew from the island. Building resumed after the Union troops took control of the fort and the island. Masons, workers and carpenter were hired from northern states. It was probably during this time that the fort was called Massachusetts in honor of the Union gunboat.

Construction materials including bricks were difficult to obtain and were brought by boats from the northeastern states. A new barrier resulted when thousands of Union soldiers, sailors, plus construction workers were crowded on the island. Fort superintendent John Palfrey accused Colonel Nathan Daniels, commander of the Louisiana Native Guards, of taking 15,000 board feet of lumber needed for the fort.

Even after the Civil War, obstacles to the fort's completion and use continued. Essentially completed in 1866, the fort was partially armed with cannons in 1873 to face assault by the Spanish Navy. Though never attacked, the fort stood guard over Ship Island's harbor.

Despite the early end of its military usefulness, the fort's beauty and craftsmanship have attracted people to Ship Island for years. Local residents interested in saving the fort from possible collapse by erosion formed a "Save the Fort" committee in the 1960s. It was through those efforts that Gulf Islands National Seashore was established. Although island erosion, weather and time are constant obstacles, careful stewardship should preserve historic Fort Massachusetts for future generations.

Cat Island Recently Funded
Congress has recently passed a $4 million appropriations bill for the purchase of Cat Island by the National Park Service. The Island is the uncut jewel of Mississippi's barrier beaches. The action came due to the efforts of U.S. Senator Thad Cochran and U.S. Representative Gene Taylor, to the 2001 spending bill for the Department of the Interior. "It's been a long struggle to reach agreement for final passage," said Taylor. The Trust for Public Land will make the actual purchase and will be reimbursed by the government.

The transaction might not take place for months, since the Park Service has not completed an appraisal of the property. An appraiser has been working to find similar land deals on which to base the price. "The appraisal is just so slow because there is no other property like it," said Jerry Eubanks, Superintendent of the Gulf Islands National Seashore.

Park Service rangers have begun to survey the island in preparation for routine patrols of the 2,100-acre parcel, which includes 21 miles of shoreline. Preliminary estimates put the value at around $28 million.

However, the Park Service has not begun financial negotiations with the Boddie family, which owns the land. "We still do not have an agreement with the Park Service," said George Boddie, a Louisiana engineer whose father, Nathan, bought the island in 1911. "We're pleased with the passage of the authorization," said Boddie. "The process was more complicated than we envisioned." Negotiations began about two years ago. The Boddie family will keep 150 acres, which will include 10 family lots and space for a lodge with 28 units. The lodge will be for tourists, but it might include a facility for corporate retreats.

According the Eubanks, "The Seashore offers numerous recreational opportunities including camping, swimming, fishing, picnicking and hiking. Educational and informational programs for all age groups are offered throughout the year."

This park is one rich in natural and cultural resources, is yours to enjoy and protect. Whatever you do while here or however long you stay, we hope you enjoy your visit.

This article was written by James L. Cummins, Executive Director of the Mississippi Fish and Wildlife Foundation. The Gulf Islands National Seashore provided the information for this article.